Our children are now more involved in sports which is a good thing. No matter what kind of sports your child choose, we know that it is good for their health. Do you know that they can get better at their chosen sports when they are equipped with the best tools in the game? In this post, we are going to talk about the best baseball bat that will make your child better in the game Baseball.
Baseball Bats – How it’s made
Making baseball bat entails balancing weight and thickness. The material it’s made from can make a difference. Metal bats hit the ball farther. However, the pros use wood bats because of league regulations and even the type of wood might impact the score. The process listed below shows how the best youth baseball bats are made which are favored by professionals as well.
Maple Wood. Barry Bonds made a home run record in 2001 with the wood bat that is made of maple instead of the usual white ash. Bats that are made of maple wood vs the usual white ash doesn’t make a difference in physical appearance. However, a chunk of maple wood has what it takes to make a good bat.
- The wood is weighed to make sure that the wood is really thick and heavy as it appears then it goes through the XY machine where pointed prongs grip the wood and spin it while a card-bide cutter rounds it. The rounded blank goes into a room called the library, joining others on the shelf that are waiting for their chance at the big leagues.
- A worker selects one of the blanks to fill an order that specifies a certain model and size. He weighs it again to make sure it measures up to what the player has ordered.
- The blank goes on to the XY machine and spins. A computer guides the cutter as it moves on rails and carves into the blank. It whittles one inch of the wood from the blank in order to form a handle.
- It takes a total of 3 passes on the XY cutter to make the rough shape of a baseball bat, but it’s quick work completed in just 3 minutes.
Detailing Baseball Bats
- The shaped bat goes through another weighing in. The shaped bat becomes substantially lighter which is what they want.
- Then the end of a completed bat is measured with a caliper. Using a square edge scraper, he rounds the knob as the bat spins on a more traditional lathe. A worker measure as he cuts.
- With another caliper, a worker checks the thickness of a completed bat and compares it to the one he’s just carve. Now he takes a turning tool called a skew chisel, with its pointed tip, he cuts into the bat’s handle just above the knob to narrow the shoulder. Again, he measures as he cuts to make sure the diameter is just right.
- Using the skew chisel, he shapes the slope of the bat repeatedly checking with the caliper to make sure it meets specifications. Then he angles the top of the knob with a chisel. He shapes the rest of it with the square chisel.
- Next, the backs barrel is carved using the same tool. This gets rid of sharp edges that would cause a ball’s impact to ripple down and jar the player. Then he goes back to the knob and completes the shaping with the skew end chisel. Because the tool is extremely sharp, he can carve very precisely. The bat is now within a half ounce of it’s final weight.
- Sanding. Using an electric sander, he smooths down some of the rough edges. He switches to a finer grit to finish off the job. As he sands, he measures, because this isn’t just about getting the surface smooth. The bat has to be exactly the right size and weight for the player it’s being made for.
- Cup bats. Some players prefer a cup bat because it balances differently. So the bats knob is placed in an end mill, a spinning carbide disc cuts around the holes made by the pointed grippers on the lathe producing a gentle scoop. A bigger disc carves into the barrel cupping it. Then the bat goes on to the scale for final weighing making sure that it is exactly what the player ordered.
- Final touches. The bat is painted on the barrel and then a stain is rubbed into the lower half of the bat. The labels and other specified final touches to the bat are done before it goes through light varnishing.